Visiting the Old Capital of Cambodia - Oudong

Yesterday, I had the privilege of visiting Oudong, Cambodia’s lesser-known former capital and royal residence. Oudong served as the country's capital for nearly 250 years, until 1866, when it was moved to its current location—Phnom Penh. The old capital is nestled in the countryside, about 40 kilometres north of Phnom Penh—a journey manageable by scooter if you’re feeling adventurous, or by bus if you prefer a more relaxed approach.

I chose to go by scooter, and I must say, once you're out of Phnom Penh, the ride becomes a lot more pleasant. Just look out for the odd pothole and you should be fine. If you're taking a scooter, be sure to wear long sleeves, trousers, and plenty of sunscreen—the sun can be intense out on the open road.

Oudong is a marvellous reminder of Cambodia’s rich history and heritage. As a visitor, it's like stepping back in time. You're greeted by traditional Cambodian architecture, spiritual tranquility, and stunning natural landscapes. Aside from the mid-day heat (35°C), I felt a sense of calm and serenity that’s rare in the hustle of modern life.

Things to see in Oudong

Climb the steps of Oudong Mountain (Phnom Oudong) and discover several stupas and temples perched along the ridge. At the summit, you'll be treated to panoramic views of the countryside (think rice fields, palm trees, grazing cattle and small villages), a breath of fresh air above the tree line, and the sight of multiple large stupas dedicated to past kings.

Please observe local customs: remove your shoes before entering the shrine, and refrain from talking or taking videos inside. This temple holds special significance, as it houses sacred relics and artifacts believed to be associated with the Buddha himself. 

In 2002, some of the Buddha’s remains were relocated from Phnom Penh to their current resting place atop Oudong Mountain. A golden urn containing the relics was carried on a float decorated as a giant golden bird. Hundreds of thousands of worshipers made a pilgrimage through the countryside to witness the event and King Norodom Sihanouk personally carried the urn up to the shrine, placing the relics in their new home and final resting place.

At the base of the mountain lies the impressive Vipassana Dhura Buddhist Meditation Center - one of the largest monasteries in Cambodia, dedicated to the practice of Vipassana (insight) meditation. Everyone is welcome to explore the grounds. Be sure to bring water and sun protection so you can truly take your time to observe the stunning architecture, intricate murals, and soak in the deeply spiritual ambiance. It’s a wonderful place for quiet reflection or light conversation with monks—some of whom speak English.

For refreshments - and trust me, you’ll need them - small food stalls can be found nearby at the base of the mountain. Here you’ll find fresh fruit, local snacks, souvenirs, sweet sugarcane juice, and my personal favourite: fresh, sweet coconut water.

After all the sightseeing, I treated myself to an ice-cold coconut, it was beautifully sweet and perfect for replenishing electrolytes. I then saddled up and hit the road back to Phnom Penh.

Tips for Visiting:

• I’ve said this a few times already but seriously bring water and wear sun protection (slip, slop, slap). I’d also recommend some good walking shoes - the climb up Phnom Oudong involves hundreds of steps.

  
  

• Try to go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the intense mid-day heat and enjoy softer light for photos.

  
  

• While there were no entrance fees at the time of my visit, parking a motorbike at some locations cost 2,000 riel (about $0.50 USD). I recommend using the designated parking areas and paying the small fee—you’ll have peace of mind knowing your scooter will still be there when you get back.

  
  

• Be respectful of monks and local worshippers - modest dress is appreciated.

That's it for this blog post, if you enjoyed it and would like to find more, please check out my Blog. Thanks for reading! - Humble Traveller