Thakhek Loop - Laos: Everything You Need to Know Before You Go
- Humble Traveller
- 7 days ago
- 13 min read
Updated: 5 days ago
Fresh off the heels of completing the famous Ha Giang Loop in Vietnam, I was on the lookout for another exciting motorcycle trip I could do during my spontaneous journey to Laos. After speaking to another traveller over breakfast—right before my 26-hour bus ride from Hanoi to Luang Prabang—I was told about a lesser-known loop in central Laos called the Thakhek Loop. My eyes lit up with delight, and I scribbled it into my upcoming itinerary.
For those of you who have never heard of this loop, it’s honestly one of those experiences you have to have if you’re seeking adventure… Just recalling and writing about it gives me goosebumps.
[DISCLAIMER] – I took a slightly different route than most. I loaded my scooter onto a sketchy little riverboat (paid extra for that) and travelled through the majestic 7 km Kong Lor Cave, then cut back through remote, rarely visited villages accessible only by a single 60-70 km dirt track (marked on the map as a dotted red line). This was actually one of the highlights of my entire trip and I decided to go this way as I was tipped off that the last segment from 13 -1 on the map was still under heavy construction. Check the map provided for the marked Thakhek route.
The Thakhek Loop is an adventurous journey through central, rural Laos, taking you along winding roads that cut across flooded fields, through picturesque valleys surrounded by dramatic mountains, and into remote villages rarely seen by those on a typical tourist’s path.
Unlike the Ha Giang Loop, you'll need to rent and ride your own scooter for the Thakhek Loop—or find someone willing to let you ride pillion. This might be off-putting for some, but honestly, if you take your time and ride responsibly, you should be fine. If you're worried about doing the trip solo, don't be—there are usually plenty of like-minded travellers doing the loop. I actually made some great friendships along the way, and we often rode together in a small group.
Contents
Thakhek Motorbike Loop Overview
Map of Thakhek Motorcycle Loop
How to get to Thakhek
Accommodation in Thakhek
Choosing your motorbike AKA "noble steed"
Considerations when renting a motorbike
What to take with you
Recommended Thakhek Loop Itinerary
Day 1: Thakhek - Tha Lang Village
Day 2: Tha Lang Village - Na Hin
Day 3 - Na Hin - Kong Lor Cave
Day 4: Kong Lor - Thakhek
Thakhek Motorcycle Loop Summary
Thakhek Motorbike Loop Overview:
Length: The loop is around 450 km, though this can vary depending on additional stops or side trips you choose to take. It's typically completed in three nights and four days (which is how long it took me), but if you'd prefer a more leisurely pace, adding an extra night and day is also quite common.
When to go: The dry season in Laos runs from November to March, making it the best time to take on the Thakhek Loop. I rode around mid-November, and it was perfect—the weather was clear and comfortable (only one afternoon shower with raindrops the size of marbles), and the scenery was still vibrant from the recent rains. I’ve heard that a few months into the dry season, the landscape starts to look much more arid under the hot Lao sun, so going earlier can really enhance the experience.
Cost: I’d estimate around $100 USD for motorbike rental, accommodation, and food along the way. You could spend more if you join additional activities—I did some rock climbing at Green Climbers Home and zip-lining as part of the trip.
Difficulty: I’d rate this route as beginner to intermediate, though I should mention that I’m fairly experienced on a motorbike. Most of the road is paved (but look out for many unexpected potholes). I can't speak for the last segment 13 - 1 on the map as I heard there was lots of construction happening on that part. Overall, I met other travellers who were new to scooters and they seemed to manage just fine.
Map of Thakhek Motorcycle Loop
How to get to Thakhek
The most convenient and affordable way to get to Thakhek is by bus. But be prepared—once you’re heading south of Vientiane (the capital), you’re in for an experience. The roads are riddled with potholes, and the buses themselves look like battle-worn machines that wouldn’t be out of place in a Mad Max film. We broke down along the way—which, from what I’ve heard from other travellers, is pretty common. The seating was cramped, and any extra space was packed with supplies the bus company was delivering as a kind of courier service to smaller towns outside the city. We also shared the ride with a colony of mosquitoes, so definitely bring some bug spray. But hey, this is what travelling is all about, right? Haha.
Bus tickets cost about $12 - $20 USD depending on the service. I found 12Go or Bookaway to be useful when booking rides. The 250 km ride can take between 6-9 hours (or longer if you have a breakdown. I recall ours taking about 11 or so hours.)
When you arrive in Thakhek, the bus will drop you off at the bus station, where you'll immediately be swarmed by tuk-tuk drivers who won’t budge on price. As far as I know, there’s no Grab service available here—so basically, they’ve got you by the short and curlies. Our short tuk-tuk ride (about 5km or so) cost 50,000 Kip (about $2.50 USD), and we were crammed into a small carriage with other travellers. At first, I was pretty annoyed by the whole situation, but it turned out everyone else was in the same boat—and that’s actually how I met a great group of people I ended up riding parts of the loop with later on.
Accommodation in Thakhek:
I only stayed one night in Thakhek, eager to hit the road as soon as possible. There are quite a few hostels in town, as the motorcycle loop has grown in popularity over the years. I stayed at Bamboo Hostel, which was pretty comfortable—the staff were accommodating and even let me leave some stuff behind (I really didn’t want to lug a full pack around on the trip). Other budget-friendly options include Bike&Bed, La Casa Thakhek, and Naga Hostel & Café.
Choosing your motorbike AKA "noble steed"
Thakhek has really been put on the map thanks to the motorbike loop, and there are now plenty of places where you can rent a scooter for the trip. I rented mine from Mixay Motorbike Rental 2, based on reviews and the selection of scooters available at the time. Other notable rental spots include PokémonGo Motorbike Rental and Win Win MotorBike for Rent.
Considerations when renting a motorbike
Firstly, you’ll need to decide whether you want an automatic, semi-automatic, or manual motorbike. If you don’t have any experience with motorcycles, I’d recommend going with an automatic. It takes the stress out of gear changes, so you can just enjoy the trip and focus on the road. That said, if you’d like a little extra adventure, look around for a manual dirt bike—it can make the rougher sections more fun. I did this trip on a 125cc automatic Yamaha QBIX, and it handled everything I threw at it.
Most places will ask for a deposit for the motorbike, this can be anywhere from $1000-$3000 USD depending on the wheels you would like to hire. Or, you can leave your passport with the hire company. I was okay with the latter but I understand some travellers aren't comfortable with that option.
Some people might hesitate to rent a scooter with a few scuffs—or what I’d call a "seasoned scooter". But on a trip like this, there’s a good chance you’ll end up adding a few marks of your own. Renting one that’s already a bit worn can actually save you from awkward conversations or unexpected damage charges when you return it. One of the guys in my group came off his bike on a dirt track and ended up in a bush with a few scratches and a cracked light. Luckily, since his scooter was already marked up, no one noticed when he returned it.
That being said, do your due diligence—and by that, I mean when you're hiring a scooter, take photos of every angle or consider taking a video. This can save you if you're questioned about a scratch or blemish the owner doesn’t remember being there when you left.
Since some things can get overlooked, be sure to test the scooter before finalising the rental. Check the brakes (front and back), lights (indicators, headlight, and brake light), and mirrors. Make sure you can lock the steering column, and ask for an additional chain lock and key (most places have them) to better secure your scooter from theft in remote areas.
Also, ask for a mobile phone mount—I found these really helpful, not only for navigation but also for quick access to my phone when stopping to take photos. And don’t forget to request a bungee cord to secure your bag on the back of the scooter. It’ll save you a lot of hassle on bumpy roads.
What to take with you
You honestly won’t need a whole lot of stuff, as you’ll only be away for 3 or 4 nights. As I mentioned earlier, I ended up leaving some things at the hostel in town. Traveling light is definitely the way to go—but that being said, you should really consider packing these essentials:
Lightweight long-sleeve shirts and trousers (the Laotian sun can be relentless)
Sunglasses
Rain jacket (a lightweight one will do—showers can come out of nowhere)
2L water bottle
A good pair of shoes and flip-flops
Swimmers
Bug spray and SPF 50+ sunscreen (I found a snood really useful while riding)
Head torch (especially if you’re planning to explore the caves)
Power bank
Camera
Cash, as ATMs can be scarce (I ended up lending money to one of the girls in our group)
Toilet paper and hand sanitiser
Recommended Thakhek Motorcycle Loop Itinerary
Day 1: Thakhek - Tha Lang Village
Depending on your bus ride to Thakhek, I’d recommend getting up as early as you can to get a good head start on the day ahead… I think I managed 7:30 AM, lol. Grab a bite to eat somewhere close to your hostel or on the way to the motorbike rental you’ve chosen (I went with Mixay Motorbike Rental 2 and didn’t have any issues with them), fill the tank, strap your bag on the back, and set off!
Now, depending on your interests, you could make a stop at the Xieng Liap Cave. I didn’t personally, as I had already seen a lot of caves further north in Laos, and I knew there was going to be a more impressive one later on in the trip.
About 30 minutes outside of Thakhek, I’d highly recommend stopping at Green Climbers Home and doing an hour or so of climbing (I did this on the way back). It’s a great place, run by Western climbing enthusiasts, where you can rent all the gear you need for some single-pitch climbing on magnificent limestone cliffs. You could also have lunch here or find a local spot further up the road.
About an hour on from Green Climbers Home is the Pha Katai Viewpoint. When I went, there was no one attending the rickety staircase up to the viewpoint (though I’ve heard from other travellers it can sometimes cost 20,000 Kip). The 360-degree views at the top are well worth the 20–30-minute walk. Just be careful with your footing on the dodgy staircase. It’s a great spot to take in the surrounding countryside—where you’ve come from and where you’re headed.
If you have time, make a quick stop at Song Sa Waterfall to cool off. You can go for a dip here and refresh yourself after a long day in the Laotian sun. Just make sure to plan your time accordingly, I got caught out and had to drive some 30 minutes in the dark, not an experience I’d recommend (think kamikaze flying insects and wandering cattle).
Your first night of accommodation will likely be in Tha Lang Village. I checked in at Sabaidee Guesthouse—it was perfect for meeting like-minded travellers. I didn’t have a reservation and was lucky to get a tent for the night, as all the other accommodation was booked. I had to share with a bloke I was travelling with, which wasn’t an issue for me. If that’s something that concerns you, consider booking ahead. The place had a great vibe, nice cold beer, and was an excellent spot to unwind. We had an all-you-can-eat BBQ (I believe they host one every night) which cost 120,000 Kip.
Day 2: Tha Lang Village - Na Hin
This part of the journey was one of the better days of riding. You’ll pass through a scenic flooded forest, sandstone Buddha sculptures, and beautiful rolling hills.
Be sure to make a stop at Cool Pool. Honestly, one of my fondest memories of Laos is visiting all the blue lagoons. Being able to cool off in a beautiful, scenic spot after a long day in the heat is just magical.
Plan a stop at the Bomb Boats Viewpoint—a bridge suspended high above a river, where you’ll spot the iconic boats made from repurposed bomber fuel tanks left over from the Vietnam War.
I know others who’ve done this trip and decided to push on further than I did, but after riding a hundred or so kilometres—and with a sore bum from the day before—I decided to spend the night in Na Hin at Sanhak Restaurant and Guesthouse. Strangely enough, everyone I had met back in Thakhek also seemed to have magically ended up at the same place for the night. The accommodation was okay, and the food at the restaurant wasn’t half bad.
It was here that I chatted with a few other travellers about whether to complete the full loop or get the motorbikes transported through the cave and cut straight down the centre of the official route. I decided to take the risk with a few travel buddies—but I know plenty of others chose not to.
Day 3 - Na Hin - Kong Lor Cave
I decided to leave early with a group of others. We made a stop at Zip Line Khounkham. The winding roads up the mountain are somewhat treacherous, so be careful and take your time around the hairpin bends. We actually saw a truck on its side on the way back down, which goes to show—even the locals can misjudge some of those ridiculously tight turns.
The zip-lining was an awesome experience. At $50 USD per person (pricy and catered for tourists), the attraction lets you zip line and climb over one of Southeast Asia’s largest limestone forests. The views were breathtaking, the zip lines were a good size, and it was fun scrambling through the spider-webbing high above the limestone cliff valleys. You can also have lunch here—we found the food at the restaurant to be good, and the view made it even better.
Detour through Kong Lor Cave
This is where we deviated from the “official Thakhek Loop” and headed toward Kong Lor Cave. You’re probably wondering, “Wait, don’t most people go and see the cave?”—and yes, they do. But they usually park their bikes at the entrance, take a boat tour through the cave, then return and continue the loop the traditional way. Instead, we chose to pay extra to have our scooters loaded onto the ridiculously small boats and taken through the cave to the other side.
Scooters on boats through the darkness of Kong Lor Cave
This was honestly one of the craziest experiences I’ve ever had. The scooter barely fit on the boat, which rocked about on the flowing river water—in complete darkness inside the cave. I remember reading somewhere that if I destroyed or lost the scooter, it would cost around $1,500 USD to replace. Fortunately, we made it through some hairy situations and got to witness this magnificent 7 km-long water cave, complete with underground islands and spectacular stalactites and stalagmites. When we finally saw the light at the end of the tunnel, I think the whole group felt a huge wave of relief.
Feeling famished after the cave adventure, we mounted our bikes again but only made it a short distance down the road before stopping at what looked like a very out-of-place bungalow-style resort called Natane Resort. It honestly looked too good to be true, so we decided to stay the night. It was cheap, comfortable, and the food was great—albeit a little slow to arrive (a common theme in Laos).
Day 4: Kong Lor - Thakhek
Of the whole trip, I’d say the ride from the exit of Kong Lor Cave at Ban Natan to Nakai—a dirt road that isn’t even marked on Google Maps—was probably the most scenic, authentic, and thrilling. This stretch of road is rarely travelled by tourists, and you can feel it in the energy of the local villages. People’s heads turn as you ride through, curious and smiling, and children run out to shout “Sabaidee!” (hello in Lao) or wave at you enthusiastically with huge grins.
The road itself is unsurfaced, filled with ditches, potholes, and earthen ridges (if that’s a thing). You're constantly navigating around village dogs, cows, chickens, and, of course, more excited kids. At one point, I reached out to high-five a group of children as I passed by—and nearly collided with a cow that decided to body-check me at the last second.
This is where a few of us added some extra scrapes and scratches to the rented scooters. One girl crashed her bike twice and somehow, miraculously, came out unscathed both times. Another bloke went off the side of the road and crashed into a bush—he ended up with a pretty scratched-up arm and leg, and also smashed the headlight of his scooter.
My word of advice: take your time and don’t rush. Respect and ride according to the conditions of the road. Unsurfaced roads are unpredictable, and even seasoned pros find loose sand hard to manage. Even after crashing twice, I had to tell the girl to slow down—as if she didn’t realise just how lucky she was to walk away without injury.
It was a relief to finally hit surfaced road again and make the one-hour-or-so trip from Nakai back to Thakhek. By the time we reached Bamboo Hostel, where we had set off just a few days earlier, we were pretty exhausted. We returned the scooters, got an early night, and left for Don Det the following morning.
You could probably say that because I didn’t actually complete the official loop, I never really did the loop. But honestly, I’d say the experience I had—and the route I chose—was actually better and more adventurous. Additionally, I’ve heard from other travellers and read in blogs that the stretch from Na Hin back to Thakhek was their least favourite part of the trip, with not much to see and a long, boring motorway that takes you straight back to town.
If I could do it all again, I wouldn’t change a thing.
This is my recommended itinerary for the Thakhek Loop, but there are plenty of other options and timeframes. You could, for example, do the loop in the opposite direction or spend less time on some of the activities I’ve mentioned along the way.
What makes this such a wonderful adventure is that you’re not tied to a group—you can go at your own pace and shape the trip to suit your style.
Thakhek Motorcycle Loop Summary
To sum up, if you’re looking for an amazing adventure while visiting Laos, this is one experience you shouldn’t pass up. Take your time, go at your own pace, and choose the route that suits you best.
The experiences I had—and the people I met, from like-minded solo travellers to adventurous couples—were incredible. I’ll cherish these memories for a long time to come.